Know Your A, B, C, C, C, Cs
How To Choose A Diamond
You're looking for a good diamond merchant? Okay, make a left at the light, go up three blocks and see the little shop on the right? The guy in there is reputable and honest. Buy your stone from him. Hello!!! I can't tell you from whom to buy your stone - I don't even know where you live. What I do know is that the best way to buy a diamond and to select a diamond merchant is to arm yourself with information. You need the A,B,C,C,C,Cs of diamond buying: Ask questions, Be patient, and know the four C's of diamonds - cut, color, clarity and carat.
Diamonds are rare and expensive, and diamond purchases are often emotional ones, so it is important to educate yourself before choosing a stone and a dealer that is right for you. Luckily, educating yourself isn't difficult, because diamonds are graded in four basic categories. Gaining a basic understanding of these four categories, defining your needs and priorities, and determining your budget will ease your selection process.
Diamonds are graded on Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat. These are known as the four "Cs" of diamonds. The combination of a diamond's ratings in each of these categories will determine its value.
Cut refers to the shape and proportions of a diamond. Diamonds can be cut into round, oval, trillion (triangular), emerald cut (rectangular), pear-shape (teardrop), princess (square) and other fancy cuts or shapes. The basic shape of a diamond has little bearing on its price - it is, basically, a matter of personal preference. Many engagement rings feature round stones since this cut often offers the most brilliance or shine. A round brilliant cut diamond has over 50 cuts, or facets, on its surfaces. While it is not necessary as a consumer to know the names of all these facets and how many exist in each basic shape stone, a consumer should look to see if the facets are even and properly shaped. When looking straight down at the top of a diamond, the flat surface is referred to as the stone's "table". You want the table to be symmetrical, with clean cuts. You also want to make sure that the facets surrounding the table, the diamond's "crown", are clean and symmetrical. Cut is important because it will determine the diamonds brilliance and shine, and lets face it - we want our diamond to shine!
We like to think of diamonds as being clear, with no color. In fact, most diamonds have slight color ranging from yellows, grays, and browns. Deeply colored stones are referred to as "fancy" and are extremely rare and expensive. Diamonds are graded on an alphabetical Color scale with letters towards the beginning of the alphabet being higher (little color). When shopping for an engagement ring or solitaire, most people will want a stone with a color grade of H or better. These stones are considered white. Stones with grades of I-K, have some visible color, but still may be beautiful choices for solitaires of clusters. Color matching is extremely important. When buying a multi-stone piece, look to see if the color of the stones match. Even "off-color" diamond jewelry will look beautiful if the stones are properly matched. If just one small stone does not match the color of the others, it will detract from the overall beauty of the piece.
Clarity refers to the imperfections or inclusions in a stone. The Clarity scale is as follows:
IF - internally flawless
V VS1 & V VS2 - very very slightly included
VS1 & VS2 - very slightly included
SI1 & SI2 - slightly included
I1 - I3 - imperfect
A flawless diamond is very rare and quite expensive(if you're looking for flawless, you can save a lot of money by buying a synthetic cubic zirconia). Most diamonds in commercially sold jewelry will have flaws, so you want to make sure is that the inclusions do not detract from the beauty of the stone. V VS1 and V VS2 stones are beautiful, but can be quite expensive and outside the range of many consumers' budget. You can find beautiful, and more affordable, solitaires in the slightly and very slightly included categories. Ask the jeweler for a loupe (a jeweler's magnifying glass) to view the stone, and ask him or her to help you identify the inclusions. Inclusions can be black carbon spots or white "cloudy" areas. An inclusion that is visible in the center of the stone's table is not desirable. Small inclusions located to the sides of the stone will not detract much from a stones beauty and brilliance.
Carat is a unit of measure that refers to the diamond's size. One carat is comprised of 100 points. The larger the diamond, the greater the carat weight, the more expensive the stone will be. If you see a piece of jewelry that is marked at 1.2ct, that means that the diamond in that stone is 1 carat and 20 points. If a piece of jewelry has more than one diamond, the carat weight will reflect the total weight of all stones. For example, 1.20cttw means that the total weight of all the diamonds in the piece combined equals 1 carat and 20 points.
Ladies and Gentleman, please hear me now. In the wonderful world of diamonds bigger does not mean better! A large diamond with poor cut, clarity, and color is not a thing of great beauty! It is the right combination of all four "Cs" that make for a beautiful stone. What is the "right" combination? Well, you will determine that by identifying your desires and establishing your budget. Each diamond has a unique combination of four C gradings, and there is no set formula to determine which combination is right for you.
Ask a lot of questions. Your jeweler should be able to tell you each of the four C gradings for each stone you consider. Be patient. Even if you fall in love with the first diamond you see, take your time and do come comparison-shopping. Consider various sizes and cuts. See how changes in color grading and clarity look to you. Loupe each stone, but also examine them with your naked eye. Remember that when you are wearing your jewelry, no one will ask you to take it off for them to loupe - your friends and family will not see any hidden imperfections. As you view more diamonds and ask questions, you will gain confidence in your diamond savvy. You will then be able to judge for yourself if your dealer is being honest and straightforward.
Your dealer may show you a Rappaport Diamond Price list. These are standard prices for diamonds in the retail market. Keep in mind that your jeweler, however honest and nice, is a businessperson who is looking to make a profit. Also keep in mind that he or she is entitled to a reasonable profit on the sale. If a jeweler tries to charge you more than the Rappaport price, politely walk away. If you can buy a graded diamond for less than the Rappaport price, you are getting a better deal. Once you have narrowed down the quality you would like, shop several stores to see who offers you the best price.
Finally, when you do make your purchase, take your stone to an independent GIA certified jeweler for an appraisal. The appraisal will help you feel confident with your purchase and will also protect you if your stone is ever stolen or lost. Your insurance company may require an additional policy or rider for jewelry items, and you will need an appraisal to prove its value.
For the most part, diamond merchants are good people trying to earn an honest living. Like in any other industry, there are some crooks out there that are looking to cheat or take advantage of uninformed consumers. To choose a diamond merchant that's right for you, do your homework, gain some confidence in your diamond knowledge, and comparison shop for the best price. You'll know it when you find the right diamond, and you'll know it when you find the right merchant.
Shop smart and enjoy your purchase!
